Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Defining 'Insanity'

A common, colloquial definition of 'insanity' is, "repeating the same action and expecting a different outcome each time." Robert Mugabe, esteemed dictator of Zimbabwe, is about to become a living definition of insanity. Mugabe seized farms from white landowners, only to see their new black owners run that industry into the ground. One cannot expect this action to end any differently.

While the injustice done to the companies affected is enough to make one's blood boil, the real victims in this are the four out of five Zimbabweans jobless.

article

By Cris Chinaka 1 hour, 22 minutes ago
HARARE (Reuters) - Zimbabwe President Robert Mugabe on Wednesday threatened to seize foreign companies, including mines, that have raised prices and cut output in an economic "dirty tricks" campaign to oust his government.

Mugabe, 83, in power since independence in 1980, accused former colonial power Britain of seeking to overthrow him.

Political and economic analysts said the nationalization threat appeared to be aimed at winning Mugabe's ZANU-PF party votes in next year's general election -- echoing the government's campaign of farm seizures ahead of elections in 2000 that ended in economic disaster.

Speaking at the burial of a top military officer in Harare, Mugabe charged that some industrialists, including miners, had been drafted into a "regime-change" agenda by Britain, deliberately reducing production, raising prices and illegally banking foreign currency abroad.

"We will seize the mines ... we will nationalize them if they continue with the dirty tricks," an angry Mugabe said to a round of applause from hundreds of mourners at the funeral.

"All companies, we will take them over if they continue with their dirty game. Take note, we will be equal to the challenge. We are capable of playing that game too," he said.

RAISING STAKES
The nationalization threat by Mugabe raises the stakes against foreign firms and local company chiefs he has long accused of colluding with his enemies.

On Tuesday a government minister said Zimbabwe will transfer control of all companies, including foreign banks and some mining operations, to locals if a planned black empowerment bill is passed by the country's ruling-party dominated parliament.

Zimbabwe's business community -- including a dwindling number of local subsidiaries of multinational companies, older white-owned firms and black-owned companies which prospered after independence in 1980 -- is already struggling in what the World Bank calls the fastest shrinking economy for a country not at war.

Analysts said approval of the empowerment bill could deepen the economic crisis which has pushed Zimbabwe to the brink of collapse with inflation now believed to be over 4,000 percent per year.

Economic analyst Tony Hawkins said the government was employing a political ploy to distract people from the economic crisis that has left four in five Zimbabweans without jobs.

"I suppose the logic behind this thinking is because in 2000 the land invasions won them an election, company seizures could do the same in 2008," said Hawkins.

Mugabe said on Wednesday his government would not hesitate to jail company executives who were raising prices unreasonably as the hikes were designed to wipe out state-ordered wages meant to cushion the poor.

The government on Tuesday ordered prices of basic goods and services to be slashed by half to protect Zimbabweans after prices had risen by up to 300 percent within a week. The move pushed prices back to the levels of mid-June.

(Additional reporting by MacDonald Dzirutwe and Nelson Banya)

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Redemption: 6/23/07 - Mt. Stuart, West Ridge

Mount Stuart is a big mountain (9,415'), dominating the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and the foundation stone of the Stuart Range in the heart of the Cascade Mountains of Washington State. Early mountaineer Claude E. Rusk called Mount Stuart a "mountain of thrills." (Beckey, 2000) Having been on the mountain three times, successfully summitting twice, I can attest to the veracity of Mr. Rusk's statement. John and I had history with the West Ridge of this mountain, and we decided it was time for some redemption.


In the Fall of 2005, after several routefinding errors, we found ourselves atop the West Horn and losing daylight. Given the time of day, we opted to descend the West Ridge Couloir; a blundering nightmare which culminated in an overhanging rappel into the September night's inky blackness. The deathmarch which followed pushed me beyond exhaustion, falling asleep each time we sat down for a break. Since then, John and I have talked about going back to climb the route and do it right. That time came on June 22nd, 2007.


We bivied with the masses at the Ingalls Lake Trailhead Friday night, ready for an early start. 0330, to be exact. We were on the trail by 0410. The trail was largely snow-free, with a mix of snow and rock from Ingalls Pass to the Lake. We cramponed around the edge of the frozen lake and found a hole for water on the far side. This was also a good spot to scope the gully we needed to enter to get on route.


At the base of the "second gully" (or, "first continuous gully" as some call it), we started cramponing up perfect styrofoam snow, negotiated a short rock step, and got back on snow for a while. After that, it was rock scrambling time until we got to the head of the gully and found our way into the next one, where we donned crampons again to traverse over near the base of Long John Tower. We couldn't see the supposed 4th Class route to the notch so, we scrambled up left of the big corner and then decided to rope up. John led across to the corner, discovered ice, came back and went up and then crossed above the iced-up corner and onto a flat bench. He belayed me over and then we cramponed up the rest of the gully to the notch behind LJT. We saw the "scissor feature" on the side of the West Horn and scrambled, unroped, up the gully and crossed over and turned the Horn.

I was feeling pretty happy that we were on-route; however, I hadn't been feeling well all morning and was moving slower than was ideal. I appreciated John's patience, and gave him pizza on the summit. Truth be told, my nerves had been haunting me since we left the car. I had not done muc climbing this Spring. I was pretty confident about my conditioning but, I knew that would only get me so far; the mental stress of the steep environment, the exposure, and the constant nagging doubts took a different kind of conditioning. I kept reminding myself that most of the climb was only 3rd & 4th Class, with some low- to mid-5th Class climbing - all well within my abilities. However, the creature within still picked at the tumor, that is doubt, as each chance arose.

We crossed a few more ribs and looked up to see a "notch", which I think we thought was Beckey's "tiny notch". We thought for a bit that we had accidentally done the Southside Bypass mentioned by Beckey, but realized a little later that we had indeed hit the W.R. notch. Thinking we were at the "tiny notch", I racked up and went up and right, thinking we would find the ledge which would lead us to the summit pitches (author's note: upon review of the route description, the direction I was headed would have put me on the Southside Bypass Variation). What I found was the point at which we should cross over to the North side of the Ridge; I brought John up. John racked up, crossed over and disappeared from sight.

Soon, he was off belay and I followed...oh, boy, that was interesting. This pitch nominated John for "scary move of the day": for me, this move entailed stepping down onto a 12"-wide ramp with no hands and walking across to two large blocks. Once I cleaned John's pro, I tried to figure out how he had climbed passed them (he told me that he had squeezed through sort of). I didn't see that and I ended up going out and around, hanging my ass out over the Stuart Glacier! I got to John, grabbed the rack and climbed a half-lead up to Beckey's "tiny notch"; there we dropped down, back onto the South side, and looked at out options. As John had said earlier in the morning, "the hardest part is there are so many options."

As we saw it, we could walk around on the ledge and go up, or we could find our way from where we were at (which Beckey says goes from 5.3-5.6). Given the time, and the proximity to the summit, we couldn't see the sense in traversing. John spied some good, blocky climbing so we decided to go up. John took the lead up a fun, interesting 5.4 corner to a ledge below another corner which had a slung block. I really didn't want to lead this pitch, but John was getting tired and I wanted to pull my weight. I passed the block and got into the corner, which was pretty crusted up with lichen. I voiced my lack of enthusiasm and John gave me the beta and encouragement I needed to pull the two-move wonder and get out of the corner (it was maybe 5.8). I moved up another 50', or so, and set a belay due to massive rope drag. John cleaned the gear and I got nominated for "hardest move of the day".

John meandered through the final blocks and reached the summit at 1800. We spent about 15 minutes on the summit, sharing pizza and water, transitioning into descent mode. I could not help reflecting on the fact that we had made it. On a certain level, it seemed a little surreal. How had we gotten so upside down during out last attempt? As I sat at 9,416' above sea level, I looked back on this climb and felt good about keeping the creature at bay. I had taken my pitches and pulled my weight.

The occasional cairn and bootprint led us towards the crossover into the Cascadian Couloir and onto the snow. After some initial crustiness, we got into some nice plungestepping snow and made good time. Unfortunately, where we needed to go there was no snow, bearing West into the lower part of the Cascadian. The snow did continue down the left fork, which appears to be "Variation No. 1" in the Beckey Guide. We decided to stay on the snow to make time and walk the extra distance on the Ingalls Creek Trail back up to the Long's Pass Trail. This proved to be the right thing to do. Again, finding the right bootprints and cairns took us down and out without a hitch! It was dusk under the trees, but we still had daylight.
The Long's Pass cutoff is clearly marked, the way across the creek is not. We did find a log crossing, just downstream, and then acquired the trail again and trudged off. I was feeling pretty beat by this time, but putting one foot in front of the other was working for me. We found and lost the trail several times before we broke out of the trees and onto the snow. We donned crampons and trudged up, up, up. The Pass appeared soon enough, and we started down.

I have had the "joy" of hiking down the Long's Pass & Ingalls Lake trails after dark, several times, and it gets longer every time. For the last quarter mile, I was having internal arguments about resting or going on. Make it we did, reaching the car at just about the stroke of midnight. 20 hours car-to-car, 9 hours on the route; certainly no record, but we did it...and found some redemption.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Back On The Rock

My buddy, James Nakagami, and I finally got together to do some rockclimbing. I didn't climb much in '06 but, lately, I've been wanting to get out. We both really love climbing at Index, WA, and made that our destination. Many people don't like Index; mostly, I think, they are intimidated by the grades. Index is 'Old School'. Guys from Washington went to Yosemite and learned how to climb cracks, and brought that knowledge home. Index is where they honed their craft, in a time when 5.9 was the hardest thing around. Nowadays we are poised on the cusp of 5.15 and modern 5.9 is watered down. If you want to know what real 5.9 is, climb Index 5.9. If you can lead "Index 5.9", there is a lot you can cover in the Cascades. Also, this will put you at a level to handle 5.10a/5.10b in Squamish, B.C.

One aspect of Index is that there are few climbs that the average gaper can do (5.8 or below); thus, these climbs get crowded on the weekends. We decided to avoid that crush and head to Private Idaho, a small crag about a 15 minute walk from the car. The crag was empty; we only saw a couple hikers the whole day. First up was "Senior Citizens in Space" (5.8); a sweet layback up an inside corner. Raising the bar a little, we moved left to "Battered Sandwich" (5.9); an interesting crack/layback to start leading into a flaring chimney. After a snack, we climbed both pitches of "Magic Fern" (5.9), an awesome (if somewhat seldom climbed) set of pitches which keeps giving all the way to the top.

After that, it was time to bail. Great weather. Thanks to James for ropegunning for me today.

Saturday, May 5, 2007

1:19:58.81

Since my main riding partner, Mike, is out of the country for a while, I am competing against the clock when I ride up the Tiger Mountain Trail (Preston RR - NW Timber). I usually push myself to keep up with Mike but, solo I have to have something to drive me.

When we rode Tiger Mountain the first time this year, we slunk away after riding for 1-hr 33-min. and turning around before the top. Mike rode it the next day with Eric and they made the top in 1:33 (or thereabouts). For Mike's last ride, we hit what we call the Ultimate Poach. My next trip up Tiger was over a week later. Feeling sluggish in the aftermath of a cold, I was determined to beat 1:33. Working hard, and hacking up remnants, I posted 1:26:57. I knew it would go faster...even for this gaper.

Today, I was coming off of two days of a new plyometrics workout. My body was tired, but I actually felt strong the whole ride; I was pushing taller gears, and was able to take shorter breaks. Trail was muddy today, but not bad enough to really slow things down; just good old Springtime in the PNW. I hit the top of the NW Timber Trail in 19-minutes & change. After a brief rest, and a Clif Shot, at the bottom of the Preston R.R. Trail, I started climbing. Right away, Preston lets you know who is boss with a few railroad ballast rock gardens and a couple steep climbs. Once past those, it is a palatable grind interrupted by skill-building obstacles and bikers coming down. I took a brief breather at the "cattle fence", as we call it, and I saw I was at one hour total time. I was going to have to beat it if I was going to post a decent time. I kicked it down a gear, and pushed against the clock. This section always seems short on the downhill; you make it from the top to the fence in about 11 minutes. So, going up it I always think it is shorter than it is; I knew it was going to be close. I pushed as hard as I could, shifting into ever-lower gears as the terrain and my legs allowed. As you come around that final bend, you can see sunlight ahead shining on the road. I cranked for the road and hit the stop button on my watch as soon as I could: 1:19:58.81

It is always interesting to look at the things that drive us to excel. My goal of climbing the Tiger Mountain Trail in less than 80-minutes is totally meaningless. Proven more so by the fact that there are an untold number of riders who could smoke that time without breaking a sweat. That's fine, and I applaud them. For me on Tiger, it is to mark myself as better. Stronger. Faster. Not better than anyone else, but better than my previous efforts. With age, I've gained the humility to acknowledge that there are many out there better than I, stronger than I, and faster than I. That's okay. The competition that I seek is with myself.

Sunday, April 15, 2007

300 The Movie




I saw 300, the film adaptation of Frank Miller's graphic novel (read: long comic book), recently. For those of you who don't understand 'graphic novels', or their screen adaptations, you may not like it. A 'graphic novel' is, essentially, a long comic book; thus, a film adaptation will include some animation, as well as some peotic license. Frank Miller also wrote Sin City, adapted for the silver screen in 2005.

300 is the story of Leonidas, one of two Kings of Sparta, leading 300 Spartans into battle against roughly 100,000 Persians, led by King Xerxes I in 480 B.C. This epic battle took place at the Thermopylae Pass, also known as the "Hot Gates" (so named because of hot springs nearby). As is implied by the name, Thermopylae Pass was chosen for its geography: bound by the sea on the South and cliffs to the North. By choosing this place for battle, Leonidas reduced the effectiveness of Xerxes' much larger force. So much so, that the Spartans (and Greeks) were able to hold the Persians off for three days.

The reason behind the choice of Leonidas to go to war with only his personal force of 300 Spartans is thought to be twofold: Spartan religious custom did not allow mobilization of the army at the end of the fighting 'season' (warring usually was not undertaken at the onset of winter). Second, the Oracle at Delphi most likely prophesied that Sparta would be saved if the life of one of its kings was given. The history reads a little differently.

Anyway, on to the movie: I loved it on several levels. First, it is a cinematic epic on the scale of Braveheart, Saving Private Ryan, Gladiator, et al. Like those movies, the heroes are larger than life, their exploits are those of legend, and the thematic scope is vast. The key that sets this movie apart from others is that the battle at Thermopylae actually took place. Certainly, Frank Miller took some liberties by adding monsters; as well, the screenwriters exhibited some license. It is movies such as this for which the silver screen was created. The creators deserve a large canvas on which to paint their cinematic masterpiece. The breadth of the Persian hoard can best be felt displayed upon the theater screen.

300 is an ancient and epic tale of honor, bravery, sacrifice, and courage. Massively outnumbered, 300 Spartan warriors marched, with roughly 10,000 Greeks, to meet the oncoming armies of Xerxes, the god-king of Persia. It's an underdog story. The script carried a perfect balance of action and plot/character devel0pment. The battle sequences were intense and bloody. In keeping with the graphic novel genre, the blood was a stylized anime; you knew it was bloody, but the gore factor was low.

I found the political and ideological messages underlying throughout the movie interesting. Freedom. Liberty. Honor. Fighting for what you believe in. Walking an unpopular path to follow your convictions. All of these were played out in the decisions of Leonidas, his wife, and the 300 Spartans. Did this come from Hollywood? I though to myself in the theater. Each one of these principles are in direct opposition of the Leftist Socialist Hollywood "Elite".

"SPAR-TAAAAA..."

Monday, April 2, 2007

UN Watch Shows the Light to the Blind

UN Watch shows the truth to the UN Council on Human Rights, and they refuse to see. It is interesting that the President of the Council is more concerned about the "harsh" language used in the speech than he is about the content.

www.unwatch.org

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

The John Doe Manifesto

Once, again, Michelle Malkin nails it...HARD:

The John Doe Manifesto
By Michelle Malkin


www.jewishworldreview.com
Note: Earlier this month, six publicity-seeking imams filed a federal lawsuit against US Airways and the Metropolitan Airports Commission in Minneapolis/St. Paul. The Muslim clerics were removed from their flight last November and questioned for several hours after their suspicious behavior alarmed both passengers and crew members. Minneapolis Star Tribune columnist Katherine Kersten reported last week that the imams, advised by the grievance-mongers at the Council on American-Islamic Relations, also plan to sue "John Does" — innocent bystanders who alerted the authorities about their security concerns. Rep. Steve Pearce, R-N.M., has introduced legislation to protect John Does who report suspicious behavior from legal liability. The Becket Fund for Religious Liberty; talk show host Michael Reagan; Dr. Zuhdi Jasser, who heads the American Islamic Forum for Democracy; and Minnesota lawyer Gerry Nolting have all stepped forward to offer free representation to the imams' targets.

Dear Muslim Terrorist Plotter/Planner/Funder/Enabler/Apologist,

You do not know me. But I am on the lookout for you. You are my enemy. And I am yours.

I am John Doe.

I am traveling on your plane. I am riding on your train. I am at your bus stop. I am on your street. I am in your subway car. I am on your lift.

I am your neighbor. I am your customer. I am your classmate. I am your boss.

I am John Doe.

I will never forget the example of the passengers of United Airlines Flight 93 who refused to sit back on 9/11 and let themselves be murdered in the name of Islam without a fight.

I will never forget the passengers and crew members who tackled al Qaeda shoe-bomber Richard Reid on American Airlines Flight 63 before he had a chance to blow up the plane over the Atlantic Ocean.

I will never forget the alertness of actor James Woods, who notified a stewardess that several Arab men sitting in his first-class cabin on an August 2001 flight were behaving strangely. The men turned out to be 9/11 hijackers on a test run.

I will act when homeland security officials ask me to "report suspicious activity."

I will embrace my local police department's admonition: "If you see
something, say something."

I am John Doe.

I will protest your Jew-hating, America-bashing "scholars."

I will petition against your hate-mongering mosque leaders.

I will raise my voice against your subjugation of women and religious
minorities.

I will challenge your attempts to indoctrinate my children in our
schools.

I will combat your violent propaganda on the Internet.

I am John Doe.

I will support law enforcement initiatives to spy on your operatives,
cut off your funding and disrupt your murderous conspiracies.

I will oppose all attempts to undermine our borders and immigration
laws.

I will resist the imposition of sharia principles and sharia law in my taxi cab, my restaurant, my community pool, the halls of Congress, our national monuments, the radio and television airwaves, and all public spaces.

I will not be censored in the name of tolerance.

I will not be cowed by your Beltway lobbying groups in moderates' clothing. I will not cringe when you shriek about "profiling" or "Islamophobia."

I will put my family's safety above sensitivity. I will put my country
above multiculturalism.

I will not submit to your will. I will not be intimidated.

I am John Doe.